Friday 17 April 2009


Off Paul do Mar: dolphinwatching & whalewatching

In search of the biggest mammal on the planet! with 'Lobosonda' : http://en.lobosonda.com/

In March 2009 for the first time I went Dolphinwatching & whalewatching off the island of Madeira, off the Calheta coast to be precise in ‘Lobosonda’ a restored traditional Madeiran ‘chavelha’ fishing boat which has been operating from Calheta Marina since 2004. I was very excited because it had been reported in the Madeiran press that ‘blue whales’ had been spotted by boats such as ‘Lobosonda’ recently but, not seen in Madeiran waters for 5 or 6 years. Don’t forget that blue whales which can grow up to 32 metres in length are the largest animals to have ever existed!




Claudia one of the skippers! informed us about the voyage approximately 3 hours , safety on board, indicated everything worth looking at and had books and other material available on the marine species. Also, she told us the history of the boat. It was built in Machico and caught tuna and ‘espada preta’ (the famous Madeiran black scabbard fish which lives at depths of 600-1,600 metres) off both Calheta coasts and later off Camara de Lobos.




What did we see?

Within a few kilometres of leaving the marina we saw a school of common dolphins (delphinus delphis) and they were all around us in different groups, jumping and bow-riding. Claudia estimated that the whole school numbered 20. We were with them or they with us for a considerable time. Even when the boat speeded up the dolphins swam alongside or were bow-riding again. Further out from the Calheta coast we saw a strange object floating in the sea, part of a traditional Madeiran wooden hand rail from a path or a viewing point. Then we saw something swimming below it.. quite a large fish. It turned out to be a ‘cherne’. The other skipper Senhor Luis who was an ex-full-time fisherman with 50 years experience from Camara de Lobos tried to catch the fish with a net so we could see it well and learn about it. But, no matter how hard he tried the clever chap escaped. The next surprise was a brief glimpse of a Loggerhead sea turtle (caretta caretta) which dived as we moved closer to view him. My favourite time besides the dolphins was the punch-up between the seagulls and the cory shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea) over fish that the dolphins missed after rounding them up. Claudia explained how with reason the cory shearwaters known as ‘Cagarras’ locally.. fight the seagulls as the Cagarras catch the fish and the seagulls try to steal them.




Beware of the Portuguese man of war!

Throughout the whole voyage we also saw Portuguese man of war (physalia physalis) which look fascinating and even attractive. People think it’s a jellyfish but, it’s not. Since the voyage I have researched it on the net and it’s a ‘siphonophore’, an animal made up of a colony of organisms working together. Even more interesting its tentacles can extend 50 meters in length below the surface, although 10 meters is usually the average and they are dangerous in that they are covered in venom-filled nematocysts used to paralyze and kill fish and other small creatures! For humans a man-of-war sting is excruciatingly painful and fortunately rarely deadly. But, beware of even dead ones washed up on shore. They can still deliver a sting!

I have scuba-dived off Madeira in the Garajau Marine Reserve and in Egypt in the Red Sea and saw one dolphin. This was a different experience observing from above with experts and it complemented my previous experiences well. So, all in all, it was a great 3 hours and I recommend this type of activity for anyone who has any interest in marine life.

Paul Abbiati, the writer, is owner of ‘Sunny House’ in Paul do Mar a historic fishing village which is part of Lobosonda’s itinerary

‘Sunny House’ is a holiday rental house 50 metres from Paul do Mar’s beach. It has ocean & mountain views from its 3 floors and 2 sun terraces. Its in the quietest quarter of the village between banana fields.

For more information and to book see ‘Sunny House’’s website:
http://www.pauldomar.com








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